Zurich for Beginners

After three months in Zurich I know my way round the city and some of the traps to avoid. Hopefully this will help would be expatriates who are deciding whether or not to relocate to Zürich. Taxes are low but the cost of living is high, at least for the inexperienced expatriate and accommodation is scarce. On the other hand the city is very photogenic, many people speak some English, and the streets are mostly safe.

Zürich regularly appears in lists of the worlds most expensive cities usually around number 5 or 6. On average prices are between three and four times UK prices. A small glass of wine in a restaurant is around 6CHF, which is four times the price of a similar glass in the UK, and you are lucky if you can get a one course meal under 20CHF (I know where, but I am not telling). A colleague reported paying 20CHF for a MCDonalds meal, but that was in the centre. Haircuts start at around 25CHF outside the city centre and rise to around 90CHF in the centre. Household necessities can cost a fortune, but in stores like Migros and COOP one can sometimes pick up a relative bargain. As in many cities the locals can use their money much more effectively than the foreigner so if you have a local as a friend they may be able to help you settling in.

Finding accommodation in Zurich is not challenging. It is a nightmare. At the time of writing a furnished studio flat with bills included in the rent for under 1,000CHF is almost non existent. When bills are included electricity is often not included. I am told that rental agreements can only be changed in March and September so in between you have to rely on finding someone who has to move and is looking for a replacement tenant. You will also have to pay up to three months deposit (the maximum allowed by law). Be warned that when viewing a flat, especially a cheap one, maybe 20 or thirty people will also be viewing it. The landlord may demand a letter from the police saying you have no criminal record and a letter confirming you have no debts in Switzerland, as well as proof you have work.

The alternative to simple flat is a furnished serviced apartment. These are more expensive but include all bills (no telephone) and may include Internet, regular cleaning and laundry. These can represent good value but you need to start looking for these well in advance of arrival.

Accommodation scams abound, the most common being the absentee landlord who promises to post you the keys if you send them the money by (say) Western Union. I found a lot of these on Craigslist. There may also be the enterprising person manages to get hold of a set of keys to a flat and shows you round the flat. Then they take the money and switch the keys for a non functional set. This is the local equivalent of selling Tower Bridge to tourists.

If you are planning to stay in a cheap hotel while looking for a place to live be aware that a budget hotel is around 120CHF a night and usually booked up at least three weeks in advance.

Mobile phones seem surprisingly cheap to use. If you buy a local sim card you will have to show a passport, and register. Swisscom will charge you 20CHF. Lebara is cheaper but I have never got a Lebara card to work, so I avoid them.

Internet communication is relatively expensive. For mobile broadband with a USB stick you will pay 6CHF a day from Swisscom. Other places may be cheaper but have poorer coverage. There are internet cafes, but these are pricy.

If you can drive getting around is no problem, but public transport takes around three times as long as in a car. However the system is largely reliable and the time between two points is predictable 99% of the time. A day ticket for the city costs 8.20CHF and a monthly ticket costs 88CHF, or 80CHF if you opt for a photo ID with it (show your passport again!). The transport company does send out ticket inspectors and the fine is, I believe 40CHF for not having a ticket. Sometimes the driver will helpfully announce that inspectors will board at the next stop. One great feature is that each bus, tram, or train announces the next, usually loudly. Some trams have stairs at the door, others just a flat platform for wheelchair access.

Meals and drinks can be very expensive. Expect to pay 30CHF for the meal with drinks on top of that. There is not much advantage in sticking to soft drinks. Asian restaurants seem the least expensive but some are much better than others. Outside the tourist areas meals get a lot cheaper. In a bar you can run a tab or pay as you drink. The latter is better in order to avoid surprises at the end of the evening. There are a lot of restaurants in Niederdorp Strasse, along the river, and in the red light district. There are a few Irish pubs discoverable via google.

The Swiss like red tape. You need a residence and work permit. For EU citizens these are the same. Otherwise your employer needs to apply for a permit before you arrive. You can apply for a three month permit on line but for a longer stay permit you need to apply in person at the town hall for the district where you live, and bring passport, passport photo, employment contract and proof you have an address. Plus money for the fee. If you do not register expect a visit from the Immigration Police. If your employer agrees, you can register with their address but a representative of theirs will have to go with you to the town hall and sign a paper saying they agree to that.

After three months you need to take out Medical Insurance or the Authorities will choose a more expensive one for you. This will not cover dentistry so invest in Toothbrush, toothpaste etc. a filling costs at least 170CHF and a crown around 2,000CHF with root canal work starting at 10,000CHF.

The medical insurance covers only part of the cost. There is normally an excess ( 1500 CHF) which you have to pay yourself. The larger the excess the less you pay.

Overall Zurich is a very safe city but you need to take standard precautions especially near the red light district. No flashing of Jewellery, split your cards and money into different pockets, leave what you can in secure accommodation, avoid rowdy groups of people, and keep your eyes open. Make sure your wallet is on your person not in your jacket and keep an eye on your belongings. Don't get paranoid, but don't be stupid.

Zurich is an attractive, expensive city with character and characters. Accommodation is hard to find but can be of a good standard. There is a lot of red tape and the cost of the various insurances you have to take out erodes the benefit of the low taxes. Medical insurance and dentistry are fairly expensive. Most of the city is safe but take standard precautions without going to stupid extremes.